Double knit fabric having a textured appearance

ABSTRACT

THE DOUBLE KNIT FABRIC HAS A FIRST SET OF ALTERNATING WALES FORMING THE REVERSE SIDE OF THE FABRIC. EACH COURSE HAS FIRST AND SECOND YARNS. IN THE FRONT WALES THE YARNS ARE KNITTED IN A RANDOM FASHION, WITH THE FIRST YARN IN EACH COURSE HAVING A KNIT STITCH WHEN THE SECOND YARN HAS EITHER A TUCK STITCH OR A WELT STITCH AND HAVING EITHER A TUCK STITCH OR A WELT STITCH WHEN THE SECOND YARN HAS A KNIT STITCH. ONE SET OF THE FIRST YARNS OR THE SECOND YARNS HAS MORE KNIT STITCHES THAN THE OTHER SET IN THE FRONT WALES, AND ONE SET HAS A LONGER AVERAGE KNIT STITCH LENGTH THAN THE OTHER SET IN THE FRONT WALES. IN THE REVERSE SIDE WALES, THE FIRST AND SECOND YARNS HAVE KNIT STITCHES IN EVEN NUMBERED WALES IN EVEN NUMBERED COURSES AND IN THE ODD NUMBERED WALES IN ODD NUMBERED COURSES, AND EITHER TUCK OR WELT STITCHES IN THE REMAINDER.

Dec. 14, 1971 DOUBLE KNIT FABRIC HAVING A TEXTURED APPEARANCE Filed Nov.13, 1969 COURSE J. H. BLORE 4 Shoots-Sheet 1 DI Cl D2 C2 D3 C3 D4 C4 D5C5 D6 C6 D7 C7 D8 C8 LJLJL ll w u I I IN v F/c. m'i f A T TORNE VS Dec.14, 1971 DOUBLE KNIT FABRIC HAVING A TEXTURED APPEARANCE Filed Nov. 13,1969 COURSE FEED m w b J. H. BLORE 4 Shoots-Shut 2 CYLINDER DIAL Cl c2c3 c4 cs cs c7 ca on 02 03 04 05 D6 07 D8 KNIT FIG. 2' YINVENTOR.

J.H.BLORE BY :WELT

A T TORNE Y5 J. H. BLORE Dec. 14, I971 DOUBLE KNIT FABRIC HAVING ATEXTURED APPEARANCE Filed NOV. 1.3, 1969 4 Shuts-Shut 5 FIG. 3

INVENTOR.

J. H. BLORE 4 rromvsrs Dec. 14, 1971 Filed Nov. 13, 1969 FEED J. H.BLORE DOUBLE KNIT FABRIC HAVING A TEXTURED APPEARANCE 4 Sheets-Sheet 4CYLINDEF! l L- CI c2 ca c4 cs C6 c7 ca 0| 02 03 04 05 D6 D7 D8 O OO OO OO O O O O O O O O O OOO O O O O O O O O O O O O O O OO O O O O O O O O OO O O O O OOO O O O O O O O O O O O O O O OO O O O O OO O O O O O O OO OOO O O O O 0 0 0 o o o. o O OO O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O OOO- O O O O O O OO O OO" O O O O 0 0 0 o 0 o o O OO O O O O O O -O O O OO O O 09 o 0 o '0 0 o 0 o o o 0 o 0 o O OO OOO O O O O -O O O O O O L wF/G.4 INVENTOR. =KN|T J.H. BLORE BY Q) =TUCK ATTORNEYS United StatesPatent ()fice 3,626,714 Patented Dec. 14, 1971 3,626,714 DOUBLE KNITFABRIC HAVING A TEXTURED APPEARANCE James H. Blore, Greenville, S.C.,assignor to Phillips Fibers Corporation Filed Nov. 13, 1969, Ser. No.876,390 Int. Cl. D04b 9/08 US. Cl. 66-196 8 Claims ABSTRACT OF THEDISCLOSURE The double knit fabric has a first set of alternating walesforming the reverse side of the fabric. Each course has first and secondyarns. In the front Wales the yarns are knitted in a random fashion,with the first yarn in each course having a knit stitch when the secondyarn has either a tuck stitch or a welt stitch and having either a tuckstitch or a welt stitch when the second yarn has a knit stitch. One setof the first yarns or the second yarns has more knit stitches than theother set in the front wales, and one set has a longer average knitstitch length than the other set in the front wales. In the reverse sidewales, the first and second yarns have knit stitches in even numberedwales in even numbered courses and in the odd numbered wales in oddnumbered courses, and either tuck or welt stitches in the remainder.

This invention relates to a double knit fabric. In one aspect theinvention is directed to a double knit fabric made with untextured yarn,but having the appearance of having been prepared with textured yarn.

It has been customary to utilize textured yarns in the manufacture ofdouble knit fabrics to achieve greater degree of covering for a givenweight of fabric and to provide a softer hand than would be obtainedwith the untextured yarn. However, the texturing of the yarn involves anadditional processing step and increases the cost of the yarn.

In accordance with the invention, it has now been discovered that adouble 'knit fabric having the appearance of being formed of texturedyarn can be prepared with an untextured yarn.

Accordingly, it is an object of the invention to provide a new andimproved double knit fabric. Another object of the invention is toreduce the cost of a double knit fabric. Yet another object of theinvention is to utilize untextured yarn to produce a double knit fabrichaving the appearance of having been formed with textured yarn.

Other objects, aspects and advantages of the invention will be apparentfrom a study of the specification, the drawings and the appended claimsto the invention.

In the drawings, FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of a theoreticalstitch construction of a double knit fabric in accordance with theinvention, with the stitches being expanded laterally to show both theface stitches and the reverse side stitches. FIG. 2 is a pattern diagramof the face stitches formed by the cylinder needles and the reverse sidestitches formed by the dial needles in making the portion of the fabricillustrated in FIG. 1 on a circular knitting machine. FIG. 3 is aphotographic reproduction of a double knit fabric prepared in accordancewith the present invention. 'FIG. 4 a pattern diagram of the facestitches formed by the cylinder needles and the reverse side stitchesformed by the dial needle in making a fabric on a circular knittingmachine in accordance with another embodiment of the invention.

Referring now to the drawings in detail and to FIGS. 1- and 2 inparticular, there is illustrated a fabric swatch twelve courses high andsixteen wales wide. This can constitute the complete repeat pattern forthe fabric or only a portion of the repeat pattern. While the stitchpattern for the face is random within the repeat pattern, it is stilldesirable that the repeat pattern comprises at least twelve courses andat least fourteen wales to minimize any perception by a human eye of theexistence of the repeat pattern. It is presently preferred to employ arepeat pattern of at least 36 courses and at least 28 wales, and morepreferably at least 48 courses and at least 56 wales to further minimizeany perception of a repeat pattern. The number of wales in the repeatpattern will generally be determined by the number of needles or afactor of the number of needles in the cylinder. The number of coursesin the repeat pattern will be determined by the pattern generatingdevice, for example a Jacquard mechanism utilizing pattern wheels,punched discs, punched cards, perforated rolls, programmed tape, orelectronic programming.

The wales C1, C2 C8 formed by the cylinder needles alternate the fabricwith the wales D1, D2 D8 formed by the dial needles. Thus, each cylinderwale in the interior of the fabric is positioned between two dial wales.In the finished fabric the set of cylinder wales are in a plane parallelto the set of dial wales, and the fabric contracts laterally so that theset of cylinder wales contact each other to form the face of the fabricand the set of dial wales contact each other to form the reverse side ofthe fabric.

Each course comprises a first, or odd numbered feed, yarn and a second,or even numbered feed, yarn. The stitch pattern for the first yarns israndom for the cylinder wales, and the stitch pattern in the cylinderwales for the second yarn in any course is the reverse of the stitchpattern of the first yarn of the same course. Thus, in each course thefirst yarn has knit stitches formed therein at randomly selectedcylinder wales and has welt stitches formed therein at the remainingcylinder wales. The second yarn has welt stitches at the randomlyselected cylinder wales at which the corresponding first yarn has knitstitches, and has knit stitches at the remaining cylinder wales. Whilethe fabric represented in FIGS. 1 and 2 utilizes only knit and weltstitches, it is within the contemplation of the invention to employ tuckstitches instead of the welt stitches in the cylinder wales as usedherein and in the claims, the term special stitch means either a tuckstitch or a welt stitch.

To enchance the textured appearance, the knit stitches in the cylinderwales of one of the set of yarns and the set of second yarns constituteat least 55 percent of the total knit stitches of the two sets of yarnsin the cylinder wales. In the repeat pattern of FIGS. 1 and 2, there are57 knit stitches for the odd numbered feed (first) yarns in the cylinderwales and only 39 knit stitches for the even numbered feed (second)yarns in the cylinder wales. Thus, the set of first yarns has 59.4% ofthe total knit stitches in the cylinder wales.

The textured appearance of the fabric is further augmented by adisparity of the height, or length, of the knit stitches. It ispresently preferred that the average stitch length of the knit stitchesin the group of odd numbered feed (first) yarns or the group of evennumbered feed (second) yarns be longer than the average stitch length ofthe knit stitches in the other group. The variation in stitch lengthcauses unbalanced tensions on the knit stitches of different length asthe fabric is knitted, resulting in a distortion of the shape of aparticular loop of greater or lesser length and of the shape of itsimmediate neighbors. Although the stitch length of a particular loopwill change upon its being released by the knitting mechanism, as aresult of the distortion due to the unbalanced forces between it and itsneighbors, the relative significance of the variation in stitch lengthin the final fabric can be determined by noting the variations in thestitch length in the undistorted pattern. Thus, in FIG. 2, the knitstitches for feed number 1 have a relative, undistorted length of 1, 3,O, 0, 1, 2, 0, 3, 1, 0, 0, 3, 1, 2, O, and 3 for wales D1, C1, D2, C2,D3, C3, D4, C4, D5, C5, D6, C6, D7, C7, D8, and C8, respectively. Theknit stitches for 4 for example, acrylonitrile polymers and copolymers;polyarnides, such as polyhexamethylene adipamide, polycaproamide,poly(meta-phenylene isophthalamide), and copolyamides; polyesters, suchas polypivalolactone, polyethylene terephthalate, and copolyestersprepared from feed number 2 have a relative undistorted length of 3,glycols and terephthalic and isophthalic acids; polyolefins, 0, 0, l, 3,0, 0, 0, 3, l, 0, 0, 3, O, 0, and O for Wales such as polyethylene, andethylene copolymers, poly- Dl, C1, D2, C2, D3, C3, D4, C4, D5, C5, D6,C6, propylene and propylene copolymers; polybeazimidazole; D7, C7, D8,and C8, respectively. Similarly, it is desircopolymers of acrylonitrilewith small amounts of coable that for each yarn the average stitchlength for polymerizable monomers such as methyl methacrylate or theknit stitches in the cylinder Wales be different from vinyl acetate; andthe like. Although it is presently prethe average stitch length for theknit stitches in the ferred that all of the yarns in the fabric have thesame dial wales. The relative undistorted stitch lengths for color,yarns of two or more colors can be employed. the full repeat pattern ofFIGS. 1 and 2 are set forth The denier of each yarn can vary with thetype of fabric in the following table. desired. Generally the yarndenier will be in the range TABLE I Average knit Total knit Total knitKnit stitch length stitch length stitch length stitches Feed Cylinderwales Dial wales C1 02 c3 c4 c5 C6 C7 C8 D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6 D7 D8 Cyl.Dial Odd Even Odd Even wales wales feeds feeds feeds feeds 0 1 0 0 1 0 0o 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 1.0 3 15 7 3 0 2 3 0 2 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 2.4 1 16 9 0 01 0 2 0 1 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 1.33 3 16 7 2 3 0 2 0 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 2.41 16 9 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 1.0 3 15 7 6 2 3 0 3 0 3 0 1 0 1 01 6 1 2.6 1 17 9 0 1 0 0 0 2 0 3 6 3 0 3 6 3 6 1.33 3 16 7 3 0 2 3 2 0 21 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 2.4 1 16 9 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 6 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 1.25 3 17 3 0 30 2 0 3 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 2.5 1 14 3 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 1.0 315 7 3 0 3 0 3 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 u 2.3 1 1s 9 1 o 0 2 0 1 0 0 3 0 3 0 30 3 1.33 3 16 7 0 3 2 0 2 0 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 2.4 1 16 9 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 30 3 0 3 0 3 0 1.0 3 17 9 3 0 6 3 0 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 o 3.0 1 13 7 6 2 01 0 0 2 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 1.67 3 17 7 2 0 3 6 3 2 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 2.6 117 9 1 0 0 2 0 1 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 1.33 3 16 7 0 3 2 0 2 0 3 1 0 1 0 1 01 0 2.4 1 16 9 0 o 1 0 1 0 1 0 3 6 3 0 3 0 3 1.0 3 16 s 3 2 0 3 0 3 0 01 0 1 6 1 0 1 2.75 1 15 8 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 1.0 3 14 6 0 2 30 3 2 3 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 2.67 1 20 10 Total While the average relativeundistorted knit stitch length for knit stitches in the cylinder walesis different from the average undistorted knit stitch length for theknit stitches in the dial Wales for each of feed yarns 124, it is withinthe contemplation of the invention for some of the yarns to have equalaverages for the cylinder and dial wales. However, at least a majorityof the yarns, and preferably at least 80 percent, of the yarns haveunequal average knit stitch lengths for the cylinder and dial Wales. Theaverage relative undistorted knit stitch length for the group of oddnumbered feed (first) yarns is 194/105 or 1.85, while the averagerelative undistorted knit stitch length for the group of even numberedfeed (second) yarns is 190/87 or 2.18.

As illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2, the first and second yarns of the evennumbered courses have knit stitches in each of the even numbered dialWales and welt stitches in each of the odd numbered dial wales.Similarly the first and second yarns of the odd numbered courses haveknit stitches in each of the odd numbered dial wales and welt stitchesin each of the even numbered dial Wales. However, it is within thecontemplation of the invention to utilize tuck stitches instead of thewelt stitches. Since the stitch pattern for the cylinder stitches israndom both from course to course and from Wale to wale, the designationof the courses and wales for the dial pattern as even and odd is onlyfor convenience.

While the yarns have been illustrated in FIG. 1 as monofilaments forsake of simplicity, it is within the scope of the invention to employany known substan tially compact, unbulked yarn of natural or syntheticmaterial, whether monofilament, multifilament, continuous filament,staple, or blend of continuous filaments and staple. Synthetic yarnswhich can be employed include linear condensation polymers or linearaddition polymers,

of to 200, and with multifilament yarn the d.p.f. will usually be in therange of 2 to 5.

Referring now to FIG. 3, the photographic reproduction is of the faceside of the finished fabric. This fabric has a repeat pattern of 36courses by 112 Wales. Each yarn is /68 polyester continuous filamentyarn with approximately 0.5 t.p.i., in a compact, unbulked, nontexturedform. The fabric was made on a Wildt Mellor Bromley Ltd. circular doubleknit machine, Type 8/RJ, having a thirty inch diameter cylinder, andemploying 18 dial needles to the inch and 18 cylinder needles to theinch. The stitch pattern for the dial needles utilized only knit andwelt stitches in the pattern illustrated in FIG. 2. The stitch patternfor the cylinder needles utilized only knit and welt stitches in arandom selection from course to course and from Wale to 'wale. Thefabric was then dyed, tumble dried and heat set. The finished fabric hada weight of approximately 6 ounces .per square yard. The knit stitchesin the face wales of one set of alternatingly numbered yarns constitutedapproximately 60 percent of the total number of knit stitches in theface wales. The average stitch length of the knit stitches in the facewales Was greater than the average stitch length in the reverse sidewales. One set of alternatingly numbered yarns had a greater averagestitch length than the other alternatingly numbered yarns.

Reasonable variations and modifications are possible within the scope ofthe foregoing disclosure, the drawings and the appended claims to theinvention.

What is claimed is:

1. A double knit fabric having the appearance of having been preparedwith textured yarn; knitted with substantially compact, unbulked yarnwith a repeat pattern of at least 12 courses and at least 14 wales;

a first set of alternating wales forming the face of said fabric, and asecond set of alternating wales forming the reverse side of said fabric,each interior wale of said first set of alternating wales beingpositioned between two wales of said second set of alternating wales;

each course comprising a first yarn and a second yarn, each said firstyarn having knit stitches formed therein at randomly selected wales insaid first set of alternating wales and having special stitches formedtherein at the remaining wales in said first set of alternating wales,each said second yarn having special stitches at said randomly selectedwales in said first set of alternating wales and having knit stitches atsaid remaining wales in said first set of alternating wales; and one of(a) the knit stitches of said first yarn in said first set ofalternating wales and (b) the knit stitches of said second yarn in saidfirst set of alternating wales constituting at least 55 percent of theknit stitches in said first set of alternating wales;

said first yarn in each of the courses forming a first group of yarns,said second yarn in each of the courses forming a second group of yarns,the average relative undistorted stitch length of the knit stitches inone of said first and second groups of yarns being longer than theaverage relative undistorted stitch length of the knit stitches in theother of said first and second groups of yarns; the average relativeundistorted stitch length of the knit stitches in a given yarn in agiven course being greater for one of said first and second sets ofalternating wales than for the other of said first and second sets ofalternating wales for at least a majority of the yarns in the fabric;

the first and second yarns of the even numbered courses having knitstitches formed therein in the even wales in said second set ofalternating wales and special stitches formed therein in the odd walesin said second set of alternating wales, the first and second yarns inthe odd numbered courses having special stitches formed therein in theeven wales in said second set of alternating wales and having knitstitches formed therein in the odd wales in said second set ofalternating wales.

2. A double knit fabric in accordance with claim 1 6 wherein said repeatpattern has at least 36 courses and at least 28 wales.

3. A double knit fabric in accordance with claim 2 wherein the averagerelative undistorted stitch length of the knit stitches in said secondgroup of yarns is longer than the average relative undistorted stitchlength of the knit stitches in said first group of yarns, and whereinsaid knit stitches of said first group of yarn in said first set ofalternating wales constitute at least of the knit stitches in said firstset of alternating wales.

4. A double knit fabric in accordance with claim 3 wherein the stitchesin each said first yarn at said remaining wales and the stitches in eachsaid second yarn at said randomly selected wales are welt stitches.

5. A double knit fabric in accordance with claim 3 wherein the stitchesin each said first yarn at said remaining wales and the stitches in saidsecond yarn at said randomly selected wales are tuck stitches.

6. A double knit fabric in accordance with claim 1 wherein all of saidfirst and second yarns are substantially the same color.

7. A double knit fabric in accordance with claim 1 wherein the stitchesin each said first yarn at said remaining wales and the stitches in eachsaid second yarn at said randomly selected wales are welt stitches.

8. A double knit fabric in accordance with claim 1 wherein the stitchesin each said first yarn at said remaining wales and the stitches in eachsaid second yarn at said randomly selected wales are tuck stitches.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,204,590 11/1916 Quinn 661961,636,943 7/1927 Rothman 66190 X 2,170,741 8/1939 Ware 66197 FOREIGNPATENTS 188,611 4/1967 U.S.S.R. 66-196 OTHER REFERENCES Lancashire, J.B.: Knitting of Double Knit Blister Fabrics, Knitted Outerwear Times,vol. 38, No. 9, Mar. 3, 1969, PP. to 67.

RONALD FELDBAUM, Primary Examiner

